Study Makeover Update

study makeover

Whew! Is Spring really truly here? And Summer right around the corner? It’s about time I finish up some of these indoor projects so I can move on to our deck makeover. The past three weeks we’ve been hitting the study makeover hard. Quite a few things have changed since my original post about the plans for this space, so I wanted to share an update with you all. In fact, most of it has changed! Yikes!

I committed to a color for the room, and I’m really happy with how it’s looking so far! We’ve only began painting some trim, and I could resist swiping the wall with some of the color. (You can see it below inside the bookshelf and also around the window trim.) The color is a nice muted green/gray from Benjamin Moore called Oil Cloth. It’ll be nice to have another space in our home with color on the wall! So much of our home is white.

study makeover

So far I have the IKEA Billy Bookcase built-ins almost completed, and tomorrow I hope to add the batten paneling strips so I can paint the room over the weekend. I’ll be sharing all of the DIY details for this space on A Beautiful Mess when it’s complete. Right now I’m just chomping at the bit to have it done so I can style the space and finally use it! So many of our books are still boxed up, and it’s frustrating at times to not be able to find a book. It will also be nice to not have this be our guests first view when they enter our home! It’s the front room at our house, and our entryway has been a mess for over a year now.

study makeover

My furniture selections for this space have also evolved. My new friend Susie and I swapped some home items with each other recently, and I got this amazing set of nested tables out of the deal. They’re perfect for this small space! That led me to swapping out the rug for something that wouldn’t compete with the marble of the table, and then to get a more subtle and classic style of sofa from Article to bring a bit of a classic/timeless vibe back into the room.

Choosing a color for my dream chair (The Womb Chair from Rove Concepts) has been tricky, but I think that with a white linen slipcover over the sofa from Comfort Works, I might like a light gray color for the womb chair. It would keep things more neutral in a room where lots of color will be on the bookshelf wall. (There will be no turning book spines into the wall! ha!) Any thoughts?

study makeover

study makeover

I’m still figuring out some of the details on what will make it into the room and what won’t, but here are the big contenders! I’ve linked them up for you below. Hopefully I’ll be ready to share the room in a couple of weeks! A little more serenity in our home, and a lot more books, would be really nice right about now.

  1. Burrard Sofa from Article
  2. Cowhide Rug from Amazon
  3. Shag Pillow from Lulu & Georgia
  4. Pendula Lamp from Article
  5. Stoneware Vases from West Elm
  6. Womb Chair from Rove Concepts
  7. Moon Floor Lamp from Article
  8. Walnut Desk from Lulu & Georgia

My Favorite Easy-Care Houseplants

easy care houseplants

Some people fondly reminisce about firsts like their first concert or first car, but for me, the memories of my first houseplants are loaded with much more nostalgia than my first set of wheels. I was a 21-year-old newlywed, mourning the loss of my beloved grandmother, who had left behind a slew of wonderfully cared for houseplants. My freshly widowed grandpa said I may as well take any houseplants that I liked, because they would surely die in his care. So my cousin and I split up the plants, and while she researched the care for her plants at the library, I took on my new responsibility with the typical flare of an overwhelmed full-time student, nanny, and aspiring housewife would. Who needs to take the time to research, when surely a daily watering would suffice? I never could quite remember to water those plants daily— thank God— because they somehow managed to survive a whole year in my first basement apartment!

Of course, now I know that daily waterings are exactly not what any houseplants want, but when my grandmother’s plants eventually died of neglect when I forgot to bring them off my patio during a cold snap, I felt like a massive failure. First, my grandmother died. I couldn’t stop that. But then I killed her houseplants! It took a while for me to sort out those emotional feelings of failure— the feelings that told me these plants were somehow a part of my grandmother’s legacy, and I hadn’t deserved them. (Thankfully she had a much more impactful legacy than philodendrons and dracenas!) But now that I’ve handled my grief and separated that from my grandmother’s dead plants, I still credit that experience ten years ago to why I decided to really overcome my lackadaisical plant-mothering efforts and create a home full of thriving plant life, just like Grams.

Houseplants can add the perfect finishing touch to any room, quite literally bringing life into a space! I’m so glad I didn’t give up on the idea of filling my home with plants. I don’t have quite as many crammed into our current home as I did our former home, mostly because I just have more space here to spread them out, but I have a few that have been with me for many years now, happily growing, taking on pruning, and growing thicker and longer each year. Many of you have asked about my houseplants, so I thought it would be helpful to you for me to share which plants I’ve had success with, and how I take care of them in my home.

1. Pothos aka “Devil’s Ivy”

Whenever people say they can’t keep a plant alive in their home, I always suggest trying devil’s ivy. It’s not picky about soil, nutrients, watering, or light. You can keep it pruned to prevent it from trailing, but if you want a trailing plant, this is your guy. It will get long pretty quickly, especially if you fertilize it and give it plenty of filtered light.

I maintain my devil’s ivy by watering it a bit once a week or less frequently and giving it medium amounts of filtered light— meaning they are not right next to a window and they do not receive direct light.  It’s better to underwater Pothos/Devil’s Ivy than to overwater them. How to tell if it’s happy with its water amount? Well, if one of them begins to look wilty, give it water and it will perk up in about a day.  If you overwater, the leaves will turn yellow and fall off. But that’s also what can happen if it doesn’t get enough light, so it may be confusing until you learn the plant. If it doesn’t get adequate light, the plant will thin out, but it will not die— unless, of course, it gets absolutely no light. They will live happily in dimly lit spaces, as long as there is some natural light. Just don’t expect them to remain full and thick in that kind of lighting condition.

If you have long tendrils hanging from your Pothos plant, and it has dropped much of its leaves, trim it back in the Spring and it will bounce back, giving you length again relatively quickly— and even more fullness, if you give it enough light. But the sparse tendrils don’t bother me, personally. I love to see their length, and love that you can guide the tendrils up walls and around furniture and cabinets. Just use little nails or something for it to rest on and it will keep climbing!

2. Dracena

The plant seen in a pot next to a Pothos above is called a Dracena. There are a few varieties of Dracenas, but this kind is my favorite because of the pom-pom effect created by the skinny stem/trunk and the burst of stringy leaves at the top.

The care for Dracenas is pretty simply. They definitely don’t like soggy soil, so when I water them, I do it moderately, taking care not to completely drench the soil, but making sure the water is evenly spread across the soil. Choose a soil that will drain more easily than standard potting soil, but don’t just go right to the quickly-draining cactus blend that stores like Home Depot or Lowes sell. I recommend buying soil from a local nursery to get a blend that’s right for Dracenas, or you could try making your own mix after some quick research online.

This plant can do well in bright lighting environments, as long as that light is not direct for very long, or it will burn the leaves. The nice thing about Dracenas is that they also don’t mind somewhat lower light levels, though I wouldn’t put one in a super dark corner like I might try with a Pothos plant. They won’t grow as quickly in dimmer light, but they’ll live! Just don’t be surprised when you see some of the leaves drying out and falling off. That’s just the plant either thinning out to stay alive in lower light, or else it’s growing upward and dropping it lower leaves in the process.

3. Ficus Alii

Ficus trees come in many varieties, including fig trees and rubber trees, and can be notoriously difficult to take care of. I have killed a beautiful variegated rubber tree, and never attempted to care for a Ficus Benjamina or a Fiddle Leaf fig. But I did see this beautiful almost weepy looking ficus tree on Craigslist a couple of years ago and decided $30 was a steal— why not give it a try?

When I got this tree, it was very uneven, had a damaged trunk, and was dropping leaves like crazy. Ficus trees can go into shock when you move them to a new, less pleasing environment, and this ficus’s previous owner had it outside on his front porch to try to get some leaves back on it. He said it wasn’t getting much light in his home. Moving it from outside to inside my not-super-bright living room at our old house really freaked it out. So I tried everything I could to resuscitate my new ficus. I removed it from its old pot (it had never been repotted for several years with its previous owner) because it seemed pretty root bound, and chose a pot slightly larger than the old one. I had asked a local nursery about what kind of soil blend to use, and bought what they said they use for their ficus trees. So I repotted the plant with new soil, rinsing out the roots first, and carefully dispersing the soil around the long stringy roots of the tree.

After repotting, it was still dropping leaves, and I worried I had damaged it beyond repair. But it was also Fall, and these trees tend to thin out as daylight begins to wane. When Spring came around again, it began to grow lots of new leaves, and then when we moved to a new home with brighter light, it was even happier!

Now that I know it’s a happy tree, I decided to give it a pretty severe pruning this Spring to help it’s uneven shape fill in more evenly. I did research how to prune a tree to make the branches to grow in the desired direction, so I wasn’t blindly hacking away at the poor guy— don’t worry! The photo above is how it looks now. The photo at the beginning of this post is how it looks before I pruned it. Can’t wait to see how it looks in a year!

In conclusion, I think Ficus Alii’s are pretty simply to care for, as long as you meet these requirements: Use proper well-draining soil that also has lots of nutrients (not cactus potting soil), lots of bright indirect light, water only when the soil has completely dried out in the drop three inches or so, fertilize every other watering during growing season (Spring + Summer), and completely soak the plant when watering— but make sure the pot can drain completely. Don’t let the plant sit in drainage water. I use a grower’s pot elevated inside a larger pot, so the water drains out and sits in the larger pot without touching the grower’s pot. In our old home, I put the ficus in a pot with drainage holes, and elevated it on a wrought-iron stand, so when I watered, I could fit a shallow bowl under the wrought iron stand to collect the water that drained out.

4. Aloe Plant

A friend recently gifted me this aloe plant when I mentioned it would be handy to have one to treat “boo boos” and whatnot. (I’m always dealing with scrapes, cuts, and gashes on me as I’m renovating this house— not to mention the kids!) This plant has been pretty easy to take care of! I keep it in a moderately lit room, but in one of the lesser lit regions. Before watering, I let the soil dry out in the top two inches of the soil, and then give it a really thorough soak. I keep it in a grower’s pot that I set inside this larger pot, so when I water it, all of the excess water can drain out, then I dump out the excess water.

Aloe plants prefer to be watered less frequently than most houseplants, similarly to succulents. I know people go on and on about how succulents are easy to care for, but that has not been my experience! I think it’s because I just didn’t get good sunlight in our old home, partially due to Ohio’s cloudy weather, but also because of my general lack of windows and heavily wooded yard. So far the aloe plant has been happy here in our house, though, and I’ve already used it to treat wounds. Love a plant that loves me back!

5. Wandering Jew

I killed a Wandering Jew the last time I had one— and I hate how alarming and violent that seems when I type that out… But these are beautiful trailing plants that are easily split and shared with friends or other rooms in your house. The leaves are smaller than devil’s ivy, and have a beautiful rich purple color on their backsides, though you can’t really see that in this photo. I decided to try this plant again in our new home, and I’m so glad I did!

So far, I’ve learned that these plants aren’t as happy to be left dry as Devil’s Ivy is. It will begin to drop leaves fast! So I keep the soil more moist than most of my other plants, though still allowing the water to drain. I don’t want to soak the soil and cause it to drown. I have also read not to pour all of the water onto the stem of the plant or it could rot.

You can prune back a Wandering Jew plant to keep it from trailing about, but the trailing is just so beautiful! I think it would look lovely hanging in a pot, but for now I have it resting in this footed pot on my table.

"split leaf philodendron" monstera

6. Monstera Deliciosa aka “Split-Leaf Philodendron”

These plants used to be difficult to find in Ohio, but now I’m finding them more places, like IKEA and even at flea markets. I’m so glad I finally got my hands on some, because they are such beautiful, sculptural plants. They seem pretty easy to care for, too!

I have had these plants for three years now, and they’ve never gotten too mad at me. I have noticed them cuing me about watering, similarly to how my Pothos/Devil’s Ivy does. They will begin to get droopy, but when I water them, they perk back up. I have heard they do not do well with overwatering, so I tend to be more hands-off with these guys. I also read somewhere that they don’t do as well with regular fertilization than most houseplants, so I usually only fertilize them every third watering during growing season.

They will develop weird little aerial roots, that basically look like brown nubs growing out from the green stems, which is the plant’s way to reach out to stabilize itself on something. They will grow up and up if you stake the plant properly, but I currently have mine in front of a window that they are beginning to climb. I try to rotate mine semi-regularly to keep them from growing out to one side too much. They’ll reach for the sun, which is pretty inspiring, if you ask me. Heh!

devil's ivy

Those are all of the plants I currently have in my home right now, and I feel like it’s just the right amount. I check their water levels about once a week and water the buddies that need it, while making mental notes of ones I should check back on in a couple of days.

Lucy even spent her savings on a succulent last weekend and is learning how to become a good plant mama too! It’s been fun to transition from worrying about your kids destroying your plants to watching them learn to care for them. If you have some kids in your home— don’t give up on plants! They’ll learn, and there’ll be messes along the way, but having a home willed with life is worth it.

Everything You Need To Know About Lighting Your Home

Everything you need to know about choosing lighting and light bulbs for your home

There are a lot of fun elements to consider when decorating a space, like the color of the walls and the kind of furniture you’ll mix and match. But one of the most important details that affect how a room feels is lighting, and it’s often so overlooked in homes! Because I’ve been pretty open about my crazy, detailed light bulb preferences on Instagram, I’ve had so many people ask me lighting questions— and I’m always happy to answer. Because there’s so much to say, and because lighting advice varies depending on the application, I knew I should probably write a blog post with some helpful information… But it’s very overwhelming to think about what a blog post about lighting should entail!

I took two college level courses on interior lighting, and I’m not afraid to admit that during one particular class I left to go to the bathroom and cry because it was so completely overwhelming. But if you’re just figuring out lighting for your home, you can certainly leave out all of the algebraic equations and candlefoot requirements, and just stick to the basics, such as how many lights should you have in a space, what type of lights should they be, and what kind of bulbs work best for which light?

Everything you need to know about choosing lighting and light bulbs for your home

What Kind of Light Fixtures Should You Use in Your Room?

Assess the activities that will be taking place in your room. For high activity zones like kitchen work counters, offices, or playrooms, you’ll want more light sources and in a variety of places so you’re never working in a spot shadowed by your own figure or by other objects in the room. You also just need brighter light in work zones to see what you’re doing, but I’ll talk about brightness levels later when I talk about lumens.

My personal preference for light fixtures in a room is to have a bit of overhead lighting such as surface-mount lights or can lights, but only a limited amount of them and always wired to a dimmer switch. Overhead lighting is not flattering for humans (it’s like the flashlight effect when telling scary stories, but in reverse), but overhead lighting is a great way to give general lighting to a space. I prefer to supplement overhead lighting with heavy use of fixtures that are placed evenly with where human faces will be in the room, like floor lamps, table lamps, and wall sconces. They’re more flattering for humans, but having a variety of dim light sources also makes a room feel very cozy and inviting. If you don’t have wiring in place for an overhead light, or don’t prefer to use them, consider wiring an outlet to a switch on the wall so when you enter a room you can flip on the switch and turn on a floor lamp or table lamp.

While I miiiight be wall sconces’ number-one-fan, they’re often tricky because they usually need to be hardwired. Hardwiring requires electrical skill but also means your lighting is practically permanent, so your furniture arrangement can’t easily be changed. This isn’t a big deal for some spaces like dining rooms, bedrooms, and hallways which may never be rearranged, but in other rooms such as a living room or office, you can use sconces that plug into the wall, rather than ones which must be hardwired.

Pendant lights are also great sources of light because they create more of a gentle glow closer to the height of human faces, but they’re also a permanent choice that should be used around built-in fixtures that won’t be moved, such as a kitchen island, a bar, or a built-in desk. When you use more than one pendant light, you can achieve a generous amount of light needed for a task, and when put on a dimmer, they create a beautiful glow in the evening.

One of my personal interior design quirks is that I typically detest can lights, AKA recessed lighting. But I will admit, they do have their benefits, though I have very limited ideas as to where they should exist. If you want the ambient lighting that can lights give, I recommend considering using eyeball lights or wall washers placed close to a wall with no seating below them. For me, I have some old track lighting in front of my fireplace wall (see first image in this post) that I decided to keep because I can point the lights onto the stone wall and still receive the boost in general lighting, but the light reflects off the wall rather than awkwardly skimming light down faces or causing annoying glare in eyes or off reflective surfaces. I do have a can light above my sink for task lighting as well as a row of standard can lights in the soffit above my credenza in my living room, but again, it’s not above a seating area and they’re on a dimmer, so the lights can provide more of a glow than a glare.

Everything you need to know about choosing lighting and light bulbs for your home

What kind of light bulbs to use

What Light Bulb Should You Use in Your Light Fixtures?

There are four things I usually consider when selecting a light bulb for my fixtures: The type (Incandescent, Fluorescent, or LED), the size, the lumens (brightness), and the color temperature. When I was younger, we always used incandescent bulbs in the home, and the only factors to consider was bulb size and wattage. It used to be that fluorescent lights needed large ballasts to work and therefore were only used in large, boxy overhead lighting, and LEDs only existed in electronic applications like alarm clock numbers and microwaves. These days, lighting technology has advanced to the point where fluorescent bulbs can be as small as incandescent bulbs (called CFL or compact flourscent lights) and LEDs can now throw light further and in various color temperatures. We have a world of lighting to choose from, which is great because we can control all elements of interior lighting now, without using as much energy or putting out heat like the now old-fashioned incandescent bulb.

Bulb Types

As I just mentioned, there are three main types of residential interior lighting: Incandescent, Fluorescent, and LED (light emitting diodes). Often people choose incandescent because it casts a warm glow without the strobing effect of fluorescents (where the light flickers, but faster than the human eye can perceive). I actually visited the GE Lighting Institute when I was in college and learned that the strobing effect of fluorescent lighting is more controlled now than it was ten years ago. So while in the past the rapid strobing was inpercievable to the human eye, the brain still perceived the stroping and it could actually cause seizures in epileptic people. In the newer, more advanced fluorescent light technology, the strobing is so fast that apparently the human brain cannot perceive it, so it can be enjoyed the same as a less efficient incandescent bulb.

Both fluorescent and incandescent bulbs are often preferred over LEDs because LEDs are light emitting diodes which create a bright light, but not necessarily a glow around the light the way incandescents do. That’s basically because incandescents are creating a fire-like glow, but it’s incredibly energy inefficient compared to other technology and also puts out a lot of heat, which can be inconvenient as well as unsafe. LED lighting technology is increasing by leaps and bounds, so it’s my preferred choice of bulb type in my home. LEDs are still young enough that it can be tricky to get all of your bulbs to match in color temperature, even if the bulbs in question are labeled the same. The minuscule color temperature variance might not bother most people, but I noticed when I bought the same color temperature and lumen bulbs, but from two different companies, one of the lights had a more greenish tint to its glow, while the other felt a bit more purple. I can’t tell you the amount of bulbs I’ve purchased and returned in order to be happy with the ones in my home!  (I did mention at the beginning of this post that I’m a crazy person when it comes to light bulbs!)

bulb shape and sizesabove chart from

Bulb Sizes

When most people need a light bulb for their fixture, they head to the store and purchase an A19 size bulb, maybe stopping to take a look at the wattage and general light temperature of the bulb. But lately I’ve been getting a variety of sizes for my lights depending on the fixture.

The standard A19 size is great for general surface-mount lighting and table lamps, but for reading lights and some wall sconces the A19 bulbs available are often too bright. So I now have A15 bulbs that I use in those applications, and also in my pendant lights and chandelier in my dining room. (That chandelier has globes over the bulbs.) For larger lights with exposed bulbs, such as a basket light or large bowl-style pendants, you often want a brighter glow, but not a harsh light. So I’ve purchased G40 bulbs to use in those applications.

Bulb Lumens

Lumens refers to the brightness of a light. It’s a common misconception that a light fixture determines the brightness, when in actuality both the number of bulbs as well as each bulb’s lumen capacity is what makes a light bright or dim. It’s also a common misconception— and a holdover from the incandescent age— that wattage affects the brightness of a bulb, but really wattage only measure energy used by a bulb. You can make a light fixture brighter by purchasing higher lumen bulbs, but be careful about doing that because when a light fixture isn’t designed to provide bright light, it can be uncomfortable to look at a light with high lumen bulbs when it should have dimmer bulbs instead. Bare-bulb lights, mini pendants, and reading lights are all instances where you should use lower lumen bulbs.

The amount of lumens should you use in a space is sometimes just a personal preference, but there are some standards involved. For a small light, such as a mini pendant or reading light, I prefer around 200-300 lumens. For a two-bulb surface-mount bedroom light that is generously diffused, 800-900 lumens for each bulb provides a generous amount of light. You can use a dimmer to control the lumen output of a bulb, but not all CFL or LED bulbs are dimmable, and those that are will never go as low as a dimmed incandescent bulb. Another thing to consider is that many light fixtures are not dimmable, such as table lamps and reading lights, so it’s even more important to get the lumens right for those applications.

above graphic from The Lighting Practice

halloween toastBulb Color Temperature

The color temperature of a light bulb is something you’ve probably already formed an opinion on before ever reading this blog post. Most people prefer a “soft white” bulb, while others prefer the even warmer glow of a “warm white” bulb, or perhaps the more pure light of a “daylight” bulb.

A personal pet peeve of mine is when manufacturers label bulbs only with these layman’s terms for light temperature, when a more accurate way to present the information is with the Kelvin temperature of the bulb. The color of light is measured in Kelvins, as shown in the above graphic I borrowed from The Lighting Practice, but often bulb packaging says nothing about the Kelvin temperature—Very annoying to a detail-oriented shopper like myself! “Soft white” is a term invented by bulb manufacturers to give a general idea of the color of the bulb, but the exact Kelvin temperature of “soft light” bulbs can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Most often you’ll find soft white bulbs to be 2700 Kelvin, but that’s not always the case.

It’s also annoying to me that mid-toned bulbs (in between warm white and cool white) are labeled “daylight bulbs,” but the actual color of daylight coming from your window is never the same. The color temperature of window light varies depending on the orientation of your window (north, south, east, or west) as well as the season or the time of day. Bulbs labeled as “daylight” bulbs vary in color temperature even more than ones labeled “soft white.” I’ve seen daylight bulbs range from a more neutral 5000K all the way up to cool 6500K, which can look pretty bluish in my opinion.

In our old home, I purchased 4000K light bulbs because our home didn’t have a lot of natural light and I often had my lights on dimly during the day to make it feel like there was more of a natural light presence in our home. But if I went cooler than 4000K, the light from the bulbs felt abrasive and sterile in the evenings. In our new home, I have plenty of natural light, so I choose something warmer to feel cozier and more inviting in the evenings, since I don’t often turn on lights during the day. Of course I annoyingly had to choose a color temperature bulb more difficult to find in stores (3000K), so I have to order most of my bulbs online from Amazon. But the more readily available 2700K “soft white” bulbs just felt too warm for my preference, so for me it’s worth the hassle to get the look I want. (I did mention I am a crazy person about lighting!)

I try to keep all of the bulbs in my home the same color temperature, because as a photographer it annoys me to no end when I can’t properly set my white balance because of varying color temperatures in a room’s lighting.

Everything you need to know about choosing light fixtures and light bulbs for your home

Other factors to Consider

halloween toastLamp Shade Color

The color of a lamp shade will affect the color temperature of your light bulb. Whether it’s translucent or opaque, when the light shines through or reflects off the shade, it will take on the color of the shade. A trick of the trade I learned from a professor in college is to paint the inside of a lamp shade either a warm or a cool color to affect the temperature of your light. The bulb on my dresser in the photo above is the same color temperature as the others in this room, but it appears more warm because the inside of the shade is a warm ivory, not a pure white. The lamp shade is opaque, so I just need to paint the inside of it a pure white in order for the light color to match the rest of the room.

Wall, Floor, and Textile Colors

In the same way a lamp shade does, the adjacent colors in a space will actually affect the color of the light in your room. When a light is near a warm colored wall, it takes on warmer properties, the same way a light on a cool wall will cast a cooler glow.

Legrand Dimmer Switch

Dimmer Switches

As I mentioned in the segment about lumens, dimmer switches are amazing ways to control the lighting in your home! If you need a brighter light for tasks in the kitchen, but later in the day just want a soft glow for entertaining, the dimmer switch will give you what you need.

I have dimmer switches from Legrand, and three-way switches (switches where two switches control the same light) that have have master/remote locations, so when you change the brightness level from one switch, it will instantly match the brightness level of the other switch. You can also set up a control panel for all of your lighting with the ability to control all of your lights from your phone! Isn’t technology freaky great?

Smart Bulbs

There is also newer technology that allows you to control the lumens and color temperature of your bulb, without changing it to a different bulb! IVIEW is one of the manufacturers of this type of smart bulb, but there are other great bulbs like this too. This is obviously a more expensive feature to have in a bulb, but the expense it might make more sense for applications not easily controlled, like table lamps and reading lights.


There is so much more to say about lighting for residential interiors, but I think that I managed to cover everything that would apply to you and your home, without making it too overwhelming. As always, if you have any questions about anything I’ve covered in this post, let me know in the comments below and I’ll happily help as I am able!

Everything you need to know about choosing light fixtures and light bulbs for your home